Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Found my happy place in Africa

I apologize for the lapse in time between posts but the good news is that there is a ton of stuff to talk about!  I guess I will just begin with things in order of when they happened.  First off, last Tuesday was my first day in the Broadhurst 2 Clinic.  The clinic is about 15 minutes away from campus by combi.  I had some trouble getting there just because I was at the wrong combi stop but once I got on to the right route, things got easier.  The weird part about that ride however, was the proposal I received from the driver.  At one point I was the only passenger and he proceeded to ask me if I was married.  I stupidly said no (I now know to always say yes)so he began asking me what he had to do to marry me.  I told him that everyone back home wouldn't be too thrilled with that but I don't think he really caught my drift.  That made the last 5 minutes of the ride interesting but luckily I just got out of the combi and have yet to see him again.  Once I was in the clinic, I was teamed up with some nurses in training and the head nurse in the maternity section.  I was so sick of seeing pregnant women by the time I left the clinic 3 and a half hours later but I definitely learned a lot.  I'm sure people aren't too interested in hearing all the gross details but I will make a point of saying I have never appreciated the health care system in the US so much.  Every woman was supposed to use the same plastic protective covering for the table the sat and laid on so I don't know what that was protecting them from.  Also, the nurse did not wash her hands after examinations until about an hour in to the day.  The patients have no form of privacy as other patients or anyone who is capable of turning a door knob walk through the examination rooms without any trouble.  Nothing was said about it but I was embarrassed and uncomfortable for them.  There are way more things that just were not right but I won't bore anyone with those observations.

Today was my second day at the hospital (I go every Tuesday from 7:30-12) but I had even more trouble getting there.  I don't know what happened but I ended up on the combi going in the opposite direction.  Luckily the driver and his fellow combi worker were extremely helpful and nice so I just stayed on that combi and completely reversed the route.  Once I got there, I got the chance to go into the room where they dress wounds, give injections, ad draw blood. Yes, they are all in the same room.  Again, the biggest thing I noticed was that there is no privacy, even for a man who had to drop his pants and stand in a strange position in order for the nurse to treat his wound.  I could not believe that people are able to walk right in and out and see everything that was going on.  I felt as if I shouldn't be looking and I am supposed to be in there observing.  Anyway, the dressing room was way more exciting than the maternity room last week.  Once again, my frustration continued with the clinic due to the lack of soap in rooms.  The week before the nurse only used soap once and this time a nurse had to bring in disinfectant so the patient who undressed their bleeding wounds themselves could semi-wash their hands.  It's a disgrace because as I found out today, all the clinic needs to do is put in a request for the equipment and the government will supply it.  I have no idea what the people who are in charge of the clinic are thinking.  Also, it would be beneficial to have a medicine counter open in a clinic which is prescribing medicines for patients, especially in a time of a malaria outbreak but the one in that clinic has been closed every time I have been there.  The one good thing I did learn though is that in the case of emergencies (such as a woman today who had a blood pressure of 192/160 if that's even possible), the patients do not have to wait in the 3+ hour line in order to see the doctor.  It was nice hearing some form of sane thinking this morning.

I guess I messed up my timeline a bit but I figured I'd save the big story to last.  This past weekend I experienced the most amazing portion of my trip yet.  Sam, Grady, Sean, and I left Thursday night and took a bus for about 16 hours to to Zambia in order to see Victoria Falls.  Along the way we saw some elephants and Sean claims he saw a rhino all just hanging out by the side of the road.  It was incredible to see these animals just wandering the wild knowing that they are in now way fenced in to any areas.  I love seeing animals where they actually belong.  Once we left the Botswana border post, we had to cross the Zambezi River via ferry.  While we were waiting, I kept hearing noises and seeing ripples in the water.  My hopes were up that it'd be a hippo since they are my favorite animals in the wild.  Nothing appeared until we were actually crossing the river when sure enough, the mouth of a hippo came out of the water and snapped shut!!! It was definitely one of the coolest things I have ever seen.  Unfortunately I only got a picture of its ears and nose sticking out of the water but the picture in my head is so clear.  Anyway, once we got into Zambia, we made out way to Livingstone Backpackers which was one of the most amazing hostels that I think exists in the world.  There we met up with Luke and Taylor, two other people from UB.  There was no rest for the weary as we hopped right into a free shuttle provided for Vic Falls.

I can honestly say that Victoria Falls was one of the most amazing and beautiful things I have ever seen in person.  I could only think of all the water that was falling over the end of the rocks and how beautifully green all of the plants were.  The mist comes up from the bottom of the falls so it appears to be raining up but in reality it is raining in all directions.  We were completely drenched within 5 minutes of being there but it was so worth it for the views we had.  Zambia is the home to only 1/3 of the entire falls which is almost 2 miles long.  There were points where the mist was so heavy that there was a complete white-out and we couldn't see much of anything.  Words and pictures cannot even begin to describe how powerful and overwhelming those sights were.  I don't think any of us stopped smiling but I must admit that it made me miss home.  I just wanted to be able to share those moments with all my close friends and family from home.  The strangest part about the falls was talking to the people who live there though.  Many of them have never seen the falls and I believe it is due to money.  Tourism has hiked up the prices of Victoria Falls entrance fees and I can't help but feel bad that these people cannot enjoy the beauty that is in their backyards.  When we continued on we came to yet another part of the day which was amazing.  We ended up basically on the lip of the falls.  This part is crazy because there is a distinct line going straight up from the end of the falls where the mist and rain stops and the sun and warmth dominate.  The pictures that follow attempt to show the beauty of it all but I don't think they do an accurate job.







Later that day, we walked around the town of Livingstone in which there was a market.  People in the northern part of Southern Africa apparently LOVE to barter for things because some man asked me for my hair tie and a few US dollars in exchange for a beautiful picture of a traditional couple.  I am fairly positive I made out well in that trade.  Friends of mine traded anything from clothes to tools to floss.  It was quite entertaining.

Saturday when we woke up, the six of us decided to be spontaneous and cross the border into Zimbabwe.  I cannot say how glad I am for that choice.  We went into the town of Victoria Falls and spent the day with our friend George we met there and in a craft market.  I met some amazing women who work so hard in order to scrap by and spent time playing with my new little friend named Yuna (she was 3).



I bought several things from the market and honestly felt broken hearted when we had to leave.  George was an awesome person to meet also because he showed us the town and spoke to us about anything we wanted.  The most important thing I feel I need to mention is that the people of Zimbabwe are embarrassed of their government.  Those people are some of the most hard working and intelligent people I have met in the past month.  Unfortunately, their president will not allow for himself to loose an election and will beat people who vote against him.  According to George, he was not to be president last time around but his men forged ballots for the 37% of registered voters who happen to be dead.  They are basically waiting for him to die in office and once that does, I have no doubt that Zim will take off as the new African jewel.  I cannot wait for that day.

Saturday night did not disappoint me either.  We spent the night on an overnight train which took us to Bulawayo, the largest city in Southern Zimbabwe.  The train was old and rickety and wonderful.  Luke and I talked about life as we hung our arms and heads out the windows watching the sun set on the countryside of Zimbabwe.  If I could have stayed in the moment for the entire trip, I would have been so happy.  That is one of the most peaceful times I have ever had and the country is unbelievably gorgeous.






It was during that time on the train that I realized I have found my happy place in Africa.  I found the place that I expected to find in Botswana.  Bots has it's own advantages but the people, the work ethic, the history, the culture, the scenery...it is ALL in Zimbabwe.  I don't know how or when but I will be going back there at some point in my life.  I was very close to tears when I had to leave.  That was surprising considering the fact that I had only spent two days in the country.  

We did not leave without some adventures, however.  Thanks to our friend Grady, we got to experience the legal system first hand.  Unbeknown to us, urinating in public is illegal in Zimbabwe, unlike in Botswana (well at least no one cares in Bots) and when Grady went to relieve himself, a man told him he could not do that.  Thinking the man was attempting to mug him, Grady simply walked off mumbling a few words under his breath and got back in the combi.  The officer came and found Grady, got him off the combi and walked away with him without any words.   My first thoughts were, "Oh my God, Grady is going to be arrested in Zimbabwe, we will never get him out." but then Luke came to the rescue.  We assumed since the police were so corrupt, they would just want money but apparently claiming your status as being a tourist does wonders as well.  Grady and Luke returned 10 minutes later with nothing except a fairly hilarious story to tell about Grady's near imprisonment in a country with one of the world's most corrupt governments.  Luckily we continued on home with no other issues.

I apologize for such a long post but I have so many emotions, thoughts, and memories about Zimbabwe and Zambia that I cannot help myself.  I wish that people could experience the real people and culture of Zim and not have to hear the awfulness that is the government.  I want so badly for their luck to turn around and for them to finally flourish again for their efforts.  5 years ago, there were very few people begging for money and food or being forced to sell crafts to make a living.  It is amazing how one man, the president, can absolutely destroy a country with such potential.  I am not one for suggesting much US intervention with other countries but I do wish so much that there was some way to end their suffering.  Being able to meet and talk with individuals and hearing their stories has some strong powers and I definitely feel like I have fell in love with that country. 

I guess I should stop myself from writing now considering this is the longest post in the world but I will continue to think about my trip and hope that maybe I can find a way to go back one day.  I know people from home might think I am crazy for having gone there in the first place but I want to see everything possible and because I did, I had a wonderful weekend.
 

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